Thanks Nismo-P10 for link to nissan4u.com.
However did not find my KL0-color in the "erstzulassung March-2003".
have to go back to the 2002-AUG model to find KL0 color. 
here is link to colors EV0 KH3 KL0 KT3 QT1 CP2 DR2 JW0 BW9 and AX5
http://nissan4u.com/parts/maxi…p_cleaner/illustration_2/
Here is link for later additioal colors QX1 KY0 EY0 WV2 BW5
http://nissan4u.com/parts/maxi…p_cleaner/illustration_2/
You can find the part numbers for left- and right-hand Nozzle head lamp cleaner.
Wel...
the part I got supplied was part.no 286413Y70C (Nozzle assy)
Euro 110.15 excl. Fat..... Euro 131,08 including FAT.
So this is the passenger side front-nozzle-assy.
And it came in "Neutral plastic"-color.... so you have to primer/paint it in the color of your car.
For the record.....
Maybee others can inform about the other partnumber(s):
Left and right side and also different painted colors?
I also read the other threads now about this toppic....
Seems real week point to eject this nozzle assy under extreme conditions like snow/frost/.....
Not only does it cost Euro 131 trough dealer........
It comes in natural plastics color. 
So you have to spend also Euro 10 plus Euro 10 for spraycan of primer and paint in color of your car. All in All Euro 151 for spraynozzle 
even worse.
After skimming all 2e hand car recyclers without succes.
Today ordered through Nissan Dealer.
EURO 131
That's a real rip-off.
I am missing (think somebody stole it) my right headlamp spraying nozzle of the headlamp cleaning unit. this is the unit coming out of the bumper for spraying the headlamps. It is only the "click-on-unit" which is two nozzles + protection cap which covers the hole in the bumper when the spaying unit is retracted in rest-position. Protection cap should be silver-grey. Does somebody know the cost of this click-on unit, and where to order (dealer or online)? thank you for your help.
Since I started off in the past to change one by one,
I got them all now through the Nissan dealer.
For this last 3 one's I payed about Euro 380 in total including VAT.
If you look up earlier messages with photo's attached you can see what I mean with the grey dot. Dots are visible clearly, just looking on top when mounted.
It is indeed wiser to import from US (6 at a time).
Also in this longe thread looking back you can find the places where to buy.
You then even get 6 ignition coils for even less then the Euro 380.
I learned "the hard/expensive" way.
B.t.w. still love this car for its
High value for money and supurbe and quit driving fun.
Rgds
EH
I finally decided also to replace my other 3 ignition coils, after the motor-engine warninglamp came up several times and the reading from the external diagnostics told it was something with my CAT (see other topic I started).
My MAXIMA A33 is from March 2003 and has now 90K km.
I can't tell often enought.
If you have an A33 build form 2001 to 2004, and you run into problems of ignition due to ignition coils. Just replace them all 6 for the current aftersales version(s) with the famous grey dot. Just replacing only the one that fails for that moment only will give you extra agrivation in near future when the others are starting to fail too.
And yeeeh... btw..... I was for long time in contact with NISSAN IMPORTER (they are in Amsterdam, and Dutch after all). Tried with them to get compensated for not performing the ignition-coils as would be expected.
Guess what..... They refused my request, because my Car was a second hand imported one from Germany.
SHAME ON YOU NISSAN TELLING YOUR LOYAL CUSTOMERS TO 
OFF BY JUST FINDING ANY EXCUSE TO WALK AWAY FROM YOUR RESPONSIBILITY.
THIS ARGUMENT TO POINT OUT TO AN IMPORTED CAR, IS NOT VALID UNDER EUROPEAN LAW..... BUT WHO CARES. AS LONG AS NISSAN CAN RIPP OFF THEIR CUSTOMERS WITH THEIR AFTERSALES OF IGNITION COILS (WITH GREY DOT, WHICH ADMITS THERE IS A REVISIONCHANGE... I CAN GUESS WHY 
).
All,
I already replaced 3 ignition coils in the past, where diagnostic clearly stated misfires on cyl 2, 6 and 5. Since rootcause for the CAT-failure can also be "not an optimal combustion" due to ignitioncoil and/or sparkplug, I simply took the change to also replace the other three ignition-coils
I already replaced the sparkplugs 30K Km ago.
Et Voila:
CAT-failure disappeared (and also have now clearly higher top-speed: tried on the german A31, parrallel to our dutch border).
So think twice before touching/replacing your CAT's for Euro 550 + 850 ex VAT. The solution/rootcause is mostly less cost-expensive then your Garage does want you to believe.
I will keep you informed if CAT failure might come back in future
The ignitioncoil problem I know
Have replaced already 3 (now with grey dot)
the tread on top en maximaforum was even initiated by me
Might be that indeed one is failing.
The only thing........ this should then be seen when diagnosting.
All the other times I had this ignitioncoil failure.
The diagnostic stated "misfire cylinder .."
then it looks moor of failing "spark" due to other reason.
I always was used to tank shell V-power.
Now this happende after refuel of BP 95 Oct
And also it was wett conditions while driving.
I read in some article "check the O2 Sensor wiring":
check your O2 sensor connections, I just had the same code about a month ago. Couldn't find a leak. Had a muffler shop check and they found nothing. Finally pulled both rear sensors, checked the wiring and low-and-behold... the crimp connectors for the O2 relocation had corroded. Re-wired both sensors, cleared code. No SES light since!
So my question.....:
Is it sure I have to replace both katalysts?
Or have sombody else had other experience since in technical manual it say's for root-cause:
+ Three way catalyst (Manifold)
+ Exhaust tube
+ Intake air leaks
+ Injectors
+ Injector leaks
+ Spark plug
+ Improper ignition timing
My motormanagement last week two times lightning
First time reset at garage and diagnostics say's TW CATALYST SYS-2B [P0430]. now after about 100 KM drive AGAIN!!!
I informed myself at the garage.
1. they say it is not labda sonde but katalyst
2. only there are two and they can not diagnostic which one it is
One is costing Euro 550 ex VAT ex montage
The other is Euro 890 ex VAT ex montage
now my question:
1 any advise is appreciated in avoiding/postponing above costs
2 if I had to change 1 each at the time which oned probabely should be replaced; pr should I go and replace both?
Awaiting your advise
Ich habe bei zufall die aufzeichnug der hinterachse.
an hand dieser aufzeichnung
Kann Threesixmaxima erklaren was LWR ist?
Und Sumpfulle wo die domlager sich befinden.
danke im voraus
Zeit kurzem is bei linken hinterrad an knarzige gerausch zu horen, bei der aufhangung wenn das rad federt.
Zb
1. wenn fahren durch uneffenheit in die strasse.
2. bei rol geschwindikeit und fahre mah zigzag
3. auch zu horen wenn von hand die carosserie beim rad gehoben und eingefedert wird.
Ich denke es hat zu tun mit "ausgetrockner" gummi in der aufhangung.
Ist diess ein bekanntes problem.
Und zu erheben met Öl oder Fett nachtragen
Oder ist das problem gravierender und mussen die gummi aufhang-teile erzetst werden.
Here an interresting link on the "grey dot".
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-g…ot-replacement-coils.html
Appearently this indicates an updated version
If I may guess..................................
The Guy DaveB appearently is dealing a lot about this ignition-coil problems in US.
The replacement of ignitioncoils is actually simple
What you need is decent "Ringdopf-schlussel" mit verlangertem Stehl
think its "8mm" but you will see when opening the hood.
A33:
For front row remove the plastic protection cap (4 screws).
Just disconnect the electrical connectors
unscrew the fixing srew
pull out the ignition coil by hand.
Assemle new one in revers way
For Backrow
Same as for front row except:
- carefull not to lose the screw while pulling out
- for cylinder no 5 (most to right when looking from the front of car)
you have to unscrew the bracket for holding two wire "trottle-adjust"
just to make way for pulling out the ignition coil.
My problem with Nissan is they charge way to much for such "known issue"
which "by law" actually is still a warrenty point (my opinion).
and b.t.w. I only bought the coils, I mounted them myself.
My first two coils last year about Euro 100
This last one Euro 122 and....... believe it or not, they deared to ask 12,50
for reading out the motormanagement, just to know which cylinder had failed.
You can immagine I am completely fed up with this.
And the funny thing is (you can read it all over the internet).
"Dealers dont know of this issue" and are going to advice several things,
up to replacing O2 sensor etc...etc..., simply letting customers in the Dark!
I reccommend any of you starting such ignition failure issues.
Buy yourself 6 new ones online in United States for the setprice of about Euro 270.
And replace all of them.
This will spare you all the agrivation I had in past half year failing
one after the other coil between KM 50000 and 65000 (and probabely 3 to come near future).
I also tried replacing 6 new Sparkplugs without luck.
Believe me: it's your ignition coils.
I also bumped into US site where somebody was explaining changing the coils.
Also on his photo the "famous" Grey Dot.
For me a clear sign that Nissan is now selling revised coils in aftersail.
Great bussiness I assume.................on the back of loyal Nissan customers.
Nissan: Shame on you
Below some info I found on internet for buying these ignition coils.
V6-Cylinders, 3 cylinders per row:
backrow (passenger side): Part no 22448-2Y000, Hanshin MCP 2840
Frontrow (grill side) : Part no 22448-2Y005, Hanshin MCP 2850
Earlier I found out:
http://www.autopartsworld.com/ignition-coil_products.html
F3000-170893 "passenger side" $68.40 >> Euro 44
F3000-170895 "grill side" $68.40 >> Euro 44
Now additional research:
http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=3963
22448-2Y005 Front $ 72,17 >> Euro 47 (exact same nissan boxes as mine came through dealer)
22448-2Y000 Rear $ 72,17 >> Euro 47 (exact same nissan boxes as mine came through dealer)
http://www.yournissanparts.com/catalog.aspx?StoreName=nissanofturnersville&DeptID=188901&page=2
22448-2Y005 Front $ 65,49 >> Euro 42
22448-2Y000 Rear $ 65,49 >> Euro 42
Just google
22448-2Y005 22448-2Y000
or
Hanshin MCP 2840, Hanshin MCP 2850
And you will fine a lot of ingnitioncoil related stuff.
And a lot of NISSAN MAXIMA complainers.
P.S.
here a link to US Nissan forum.
Here is also stated that coils started to screw up with introduction 2000 (A33) and lasted untill 2003. Dealers were even notified without a recall action.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-g…5-misfiring-part-2-a.html
Well...........
Today replaced my 3rd ignition coil (Cyl-5; mid on passenger-side)
After several times "ruckeln" and 2 times motormanagement reset after severe ignitionfailures.
Also here with the replacementcoil......GREY DOT (see photo)
info moulded on in the coils (Old and new one): both the same except for white ink "date-code"":
- 22448 2Y000
- Hanshin MCP 2840
- inkprint old one: 013
- inkprint new one: 8314
Info on box of new coil:
Fixed sticker:
Nissan Genuine parts Made in Japan
Coil-Ignition 22448-2Y000
Shipping sticker:
location GC23-06-01-02
Partnumber 22448-2Y000
Mod/Stat A
Dealer group Sort Code KPS A21
Pick number=498535
BBC route KPS 78
I love this car except......malfunctioning ignitioncoils.
Ja dan sieht es meines achtens aus wie problem mit Cyl-5:
a. Zundkerze (noch mah zum sicherkeit wechseln?) oder
b. Ingnition coil (haubtwarscheinlich) oder.
c. spritversorgung cyl-5, aber dann ab die teilung zum cyl-5 (kenne ich mich nicht aus mit die teilen beschaftigt).
Gestern erneut ruckeln beim start.
Hatt 6 Kerzen nue gewechselt un frischstart O.K.
Dann nach testfahrt 5 Km abgestelt und nach 1 stunde wieder gestartet.
Und Voila: beim start un in "D" stillstehend das bekannte "ruckel-fibriren".
Dan beim wegfahren nach 100mm richttig gass drauf verschwunden.
ALSO DEFINITIV ZUNDPULE UND NICHT DIE KERZEN.
Wie weist du das is nur einen cylinder ist.
Wenn zundfehler und "dauerhaft", musste der orange warnlampe vom motormanagement aufleuchten (labda-sonde, unfolstandige verbrennung).
Dann auch kan der garage das motormanagement auslesen und sogar der cyl-nummer andeuten; in diesen fall konntest du dan noch mahl zundkerze wechseln und oder ignigioncoil.
Is das phenomen vielleicht das selbe als spricht die umdrehungsbegrenzer ann?; kanst mahl probieren die nadel im 8000 bereich zu fahren (mit automat z.b. in stand "1" oder stand "2")
Apropos zundkerze:
hast du die NGK PFR6G-11 (5555) "kalte no 6" gewechselt
oder der "standard 5" PFR5G-11.
Es spricht sich um, das die MAX ander marken als NGK "slecht vertragt"
Hort sich aber mehr an wie ein problem mit sprits-zufuhr. bei langen fahrten (mit hochgeschwindigkeit und tornado im tank), bildet sich "ëxtrem" unterdruck im tank; also solte man die ganzen weg vom spritz-zufuhr mal uberprufen (tank-entluftung - Spritzpumpe inclusive spritzfilter bis einspritz-duse).
